Geng Xiaoyun, owner of Kunyuan restaurant in Beijing, has had to remove his popular dish of American salt-baked chicken feet, known as “phoenix talons,” due to a 30% price increase since March caused by tariffs. Geng expressed disappointment, noting that American chicken feet are superior in texture and taste compared to alternatives from Brazil or Russia. He hopes to serve them again if prices decrease, contingent on stable political relations between the U.S. and China.
The previously agreed-upon 90-day tariff pause between the two nations is now in jeopardy, with accusations of violations from both sides. The Chinese Commerce Ministry responded to President Trump’s claims by highlighting U.S. actions, including export controls on artificial intelligence chips, as undermining the Geneva agreement. Consequently, American agricultural products, including chicken feet and U.S. Department of Agriculture-grade beef, have begun to disappear from Chinese markets and restaurants, prompting a shift to other imports.
Home Plate, a Beijing restaurant known for American cuisine, recently stopped serving U.S. beef, opting instead for Australian beef due to zero tariffs under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement. Liu Li, a long-time beef supplier, noted that tariffs have inflated U.S. beef prices by 50%, making it unaffordable for many. He lamented that despite U.S. beef being tastier and fattier, the ongoing trade war has rendered it too expensive for consumers.
As the situation evolves, American products are increasingly being replaced, reflecting the broader impacts of the trade tensions between China and the United States.
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